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Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE015 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Five years ago, it was unusual for men to be purchasing watches of this size at Topper. Today, an ever growing percentage of clients seem to be cherishing smaller, more understated pieces. While we anticipated doing well with only the 38mm and larger models of the Nomos line, it seems a large percentage of the Nomos fan base, and people interested in timepieces, walk in drawn to models such as the Club, Orion, and Tetra.

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Operating at 4Hz (28,800 bph), the movement is beautifully hand-finished and should satisfy even the most discerning of watch movement snobs. The movement is produced from 456 parts. It is purely classic in its execution, without any frills or avant garde design elements. This is Swiss timepiece conservatism in its most pure form, and exactly what we expect from Patek Philippe.

The tourbillon window is also the seconds hand as the tourbillon rotates fully each minute. The movement operates at 18,000 bph and uses German Silver bridges which are given a unique gray color finishing. Wheels and gears in the movement are in steel or 18k rose gold. Again, the various hand-polishes and decorations are immaculate. Likewise, the dial is equally impressive. Voutilainen uses a solid piece of silver for the face which is machine guilloche-engraved by hand for the various designs which are given an attractive blue finish. As is typical on Voutilainen dials, more than one engraved pattern is used. Here there is a distinct pattern for the inner and outer parts of the dial.

There are watches that I like, watches that I love, and then watches that I feel both those ways about and also eventually want to buy. The Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT ref. SBGE015 is one of the latter. People that know my watch tastes are familiar with the fact that I not only have a soft spot for Japanese timepieces, but I am also keenly interested in all manner of high-end horology from the major Japanese brands, regardless of whether those pieces contain mechanical or quartz movements, or something in the middle.

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